Boudha – Sept 15 – 17

Last weekend Joni and I made our way into the city again. This time we traveled into Thamel to do a bit of shopping and on to Boudha where we enjoyed 2 nights in the Shabaling Hotel, within easy walking distance to the Boudha Stupa. Our primary shopping goal was the Tibet Book Store in Thamel. I have seen many Tibetan Buddhist book collections but I have never seen one as extensive as we found here. Due to baggage limitations we didn’t bring many books with us so this was a great opportunity to get a Dharma book to study. The proprietor was very, very open to conversation and not only gave us a good tour of his collections but gave us tips for exchanging money.
Because it was getting a little late, we didn’t wander around Thamel as much as I would have liked. Instead we found a Taxi to take us to our hotel in Boudha. Surprisingly it took about an hour to get through Friday rush hour but, once delivered, we were greeting with smiles, Katas (white scarves place around our necks) and a refreshing glass of juice at the hotel reception desk. The staff of the Hotel were very helpful with directions and the atmosphere provided a nice respite from our busy schedule and the construction at the school and Gomba (monastery). I don’t think I’ve ever stayed in a hotel where there was so much consideration.
 
In our room, we enjoyed a hot shower and cool water. Unbeknownst to us, we are at the end of the off season so we were one of only 3 parties staying in the hotel. Due to this shortage of demand, we were given ample attention at dinner where we had more protein than we’ve eaten in 3 weeks. While the meal wasn’t out of line with portions we typically have in the States, one shared meal would have been plenty (that’s what we did the following evening). With our dinner we also enjoyed a beverage from the bar (mixed drink for Joni, Everest Beer for me). Eating outside in the courtyard added to the enjoyment, leading us to relax until dark when the lights came up.
 
Saturday
After enjoying another fine meal of breakfast, we wound our way through an alley and narrow street, into the large courtyard of the Boudha Stupa. Surrounding the Stupa are restaurants and shops filled with religious objects (prayer beads (Malas), singing bowls, mandala plates, Thankas, and more), assorted food vendors, electronics stores and more. Surprising to an outsider, this shopping circle mixes naturally with Buddhist and Hindu worshippers circumambulating the Stupa, prostrating, spinning mani wheels, stopping to ring bells and lighting candles of devotion. Joni and I took time to join the turning of the wheel; first for photographs, the in silence and finally as shopping tourist-as.
The most outstanding shop we visited was that of a 3rd generation Thanka painter who gave us a 45 minute explanation of the process and meaning of the Thankas he, his father and grandfather had painted. I intend to return to his shop with our Thanks painting friend, Bella, to make a purchase before we leave.
We purchased very little but wore ourselves out with window shopping. Finally we found a coffee shop/restaurant on the 3rd floor of a shop overlooking the Stupa. The restaurant and the Stupa were dotted with Western faces.
Sunday
Though we had a planning day at school on Sunday, we stayed another night in the City in order to secure travel permits for an upcoming trip. Having risen early we decided to return to the Stupa around 6:30am for some quiet contemplation of this holy site. Little did we know that rush hour at the Stupa must begin at sunrise, as it is a favorite stop for old and young, traditional and modern practitioners. There were old men and women prostrating around the Stupa, hand boards sliding over the stone walkway. There were men and women in traditional Tibetan clothes, chanting Om Mani Padme Hum with their Malas (prayer beads) sliding through their fingers. There were Hindu devotees, ringing bells and placing offerings at stops around the Stupa. Moving faster than anyone were men and women power walking around in new running shoes. Surrounding the entire procession were the poor, blind and disabled people with hands out for an offering. I was happy to see aid workers delivering food to them where they sat. Once again we found ourselves surprised by Nepal. Rather than disappointed by the crowd we were awed by their devotion and their acceptance of the intensity of it all.
Back at the Hotel our friendly desk manager, Depak, had arranged a taxi with a reasonable fare to deliver us to the Nepal Tourism Board Office where we stood in line to get 2 permits; one for the Annapurna Conservation Area and one from the Nepal Tourism Board. In fairly typical Nepali style we had originally been told that we could get get the permits without appearing in person but later found out that we needed to make the trip to their office. With the trekking season approaching, the lobby was filled with tourists, Asian and European, on their quest for permits. 40 minutes and 40.00/person later we had the documents in hand.
Having met our Gompa friends at the NTB Office, we had a skilled driver to take us back across town to our home on Chobhar Hill. On our way we had to make a stop at the money changers for our friends which required a cruise down the narrow streets of Thamel (the area we had gone on Friday). 4 of us crammed into the back seat of a truck where we got a quick view of the multitude of shops in the Thamel district. I have yet to figure out how people navigate these streets. First, there appear to be no street signs. Second, there isn’t a straight street in the city. Third, there is construction everywhere. Fourth, the the traffic includes cars, pedestrians (a hand signal and a prayer is your passport to cross the street), rickshaws, motor bikes (favored by most), taxis, and buses. It is rather like a flock of birds that intuitively knows which way to turn based on the other birds subtle gestures. It can also feel like a game of chicken, with each driver pushing to see if the other will yield. I am amazed that I haven’t seen a collision yet (knock on wood).
By 12:00 we had landed back home, though too late to get a serving for lunch. Another plan B…